Premier Couture


Case Study - Amanda's Bridal Gown

The case study below should describe the process of how a real life WBMS bride got her gown made. The case study should also provide you an elementary understanding of the process without getting too caught up in the technical jargons and methods of construction.

Client Name: Amanda Marinos 
Case Study: Design a beautiful tea length bridal gown with a touch of red details. Amanda requested for a gown style that has an element of fairy tale and sophistication that suits her lifestyle and her values.
Total Amount of Fittings: 6 fittings. Each fitting: 45minutes - 1 hour.
Fabrics: Corded lace, Duchess Satin, Tutti-tulle, silk cotton lining.
Silhouette: Tea Length Ballerina
Amanda came in with a few ideas of what she liked. She referenced Kate Middleton’s (Duchess of Cambridge) wedding dress’ sleeves and neckline but explained she wanted a modern ballerina dress at tea length. She also expressed that she wanted to incorporate a little touch of red details in her gown since she plans to wear red shoes with her wedding dress.

First Bridal Meeting. Time: 1hr
When Amanda came in we sat with her and listened to her needs. She explained the theme of her wedding and her needs. While we did not have the exact dress she wanted in the exact size, we showed her similar necklines and skirts that we have worked on and explained our capabilities.

She understood very early on that what she wanted was a unique request, and that she would need to have it custom made and fitted. After 60% deposit has been paid and her contract signed, her measurements were taken.  An appointment was made for the first fitting in the coming weeks.
Photo: Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding gown.  
First Calico fitting. Time: 1hr
At her first calico fitting. A calico bodice is presented to Amanda for a fitting. This helps us get the bodice size and proportion right.
Second Calico fitting. Time: 1hr
Design lines are created to present a flattering neckline. Calico bodice is now joint onto a vintage style circular skirt. Pins were used to create darts. Darts are folded to remove excess fabric. Removing excess fabric with darts help us get closer to Amanda’s true fit, this is more necessary for the bust area. Pencil marks were drawn to demarcate where mesh ends and neckline of bodice begins. Designer Helen Constance lower the waist line to give bride a longer torso, presenting the bride with a longer visual profile. Skirt is slightly longer at the back to give it a formal disposition.
Photo: Second fitting - Draw in neckline and lower waist line.

Photo: Designer, Helen Constance draping a back bodice to create fit for the back and with pencil - marking in panel line to determine where the mesh would end to create a lower expose back.
Third Calico fitting. Time: 1hr
Mesh have been sewn onto a new draped calico bodice. The depth of the low back is design to enable bride to wear comfortable strapless bra to support bust. The neckline in the front has also been created and mesh joined. The mesh is employed as a foundational fabric which allow the corded lace somewhere to adhere to. Panel lines are once again updated on the torso front and back area to ensure garment is symmetrical when sewn up in main fabric and lace.
Photo: Third Fitting - Checking to ensure mesh fits and neckline and back depth is correct.
Fourth fitting. Time: 1hr
Sleeves are made up in calico and sewn into the armhole. More darting is removed from the under bust area to create more fit (Seen in the mirror reflection) and support for the bust. Seam lines are updated to create refine symmetrical look for the bodice.
Specially imported corded lace arrived and was presented to Amanda for inspection.
Fifth fitting. Time: 1hr
Two weeks before the wedding, you can see that the gown is now sewn up in the lace and the sleeves are put in. The bride has lost more weight, more darting is required at the bust.
You can also see that there are pins near the neckline. Here, the corded lace is appliquéd onto the bodice to create a seamless look for the eye-lashes edged neckline to sit onto the bodice. The lace is hand appliquéd onto the foundational mesh so neckline sits flat onto the décolletage.
Photo: Fifth Fitting - Lace Appliqué to seamlessly join lace neckline with bodice.
Photo: The gown is hung up for 24 hours prior to this fitting. This process lets the tulle and skirt hem drop and aid in the pinning process. Hem is pin and ready for trimming the next day with bride present.
Final fitting. Time: 1hr
Final fitting is here. Belt and head piece commissioned to complete the look. As promised a touch of red was incoporated onto the accessories designs to match Amanda’s glamourous red shoes.

Photo: Bride Amanda happy at the final fitting. with her belt.
Photo: Final Fitting - Skirt is joined to the bodice and a thin biased satin waist band is created for a finished look. This cinches the waist, giving the bride a slimming profile. Invisible zip is also inserted at the centre back one week before her wedding, in case bride loses more weight.

Photo: Amanda's Bridal Millinery with a touch of red.
Birdcage veil with ostrich feathers and hand made organdy flowers.
Photo: Amanda Marinos with her Beau on their wedding day.

Amanda Marinos ’s  5 stars Facebook review for WBMS

Case Study - Evelyn's Bridal Gown

The case study below should describe the process of how a real life WBMS bride ordered her wedding dress. The case study should also provide you a succinct understanding of the process without getting caught up in the details of how the bridal gown is constructed.

Client Name: Evelyn Mills
Case Study: Design a beautiful lace gown for Evelyn that is elegant and flattering to her shape.
Total Bridal No. of Appointments: 5. 
Time: 45mins - 1 hour.
Fabrics: Lace, Duchess Satin, Tutti-tulle veil, voile lining.
Silhouette: A-line

Evelyn works a lot and finds it difficult to look for bridal gown. She went to a few bridal stores and she found services at various stores to be lacking and she could not find any wedding dresses she liked. She had a design in mind and wanted to highlight her waist line. She wanted a lace gown that is elegant and timeless.  She loves a gown with lace sleeves that are see-through and with a scalloped-edge.
First Bridal Appointment. Time: 1hr

When Evelyn came in she explained that she wanted something comfortable and in lace without embellishments. She has a warm and vibrant personality. We showed her a few examples of work we have done adn described our experience working with brides. Photos of styles that would suit her requirements were also presented to her. We explained that since her wedding is less than 6 months away, if she wished to order a bridal gown she would have to get it custom made now.
Most bridal stores only accept orders between 2 years to 6 months in advance. This is because gowns have to be ordered and constructed off-shore. Any brides having less than 6 months will find it very difficult to order a gown. Options are limited to sample dresses off-the-rack in this short period. When it comes to buying a bridal gown it pays to plan ahead.
Evelyn chose an off-the-shoulder A-line wedding dress with sleeves and matching lace veil. She ordered it after having seen it on our Ipad. Wedding dress designer Helen Constance explained to Evelyn the process, and after brief study of the contract, Evelyn paid the 60% deposit , signed the contract and Helen took her measurements. Since Evelyn has an active lifestyle, Helen took her photos to have a record of what she looks like.  Photos of Evelyn aid us in the garment design process. She does not have to visit our showroom too often now that we have her photos and her measurements.
Photo: Evelyn ordered this dress.
Second Bridal Appointment. Time: 1 hr
A second appointment is required after two months from the initial deposit, to update Evelyn’s measurements. It is not unusual for brides to fluctuate in weight. More often, brides lose weight before their wedding due to excitement.
Evelyn explained that she could only come in 7 am in the morning on the way to work. Helen was happy to accommodate her needs, so all her appointments were conducted in the morning at 7am. Taking measurements is a short process, she was in and out of the appointment in an hour. There is even time for coffee and quick catch up!
Third Bridal meeting. Time: 1 hr
Measurements are taken again two months before the wedding. These measurements are used to compare with her wedding dress construction. Any discrepancies will be iron out before her next fitting.

Evelyn ask us for recommendation for hair and make up artist. Helen organized an experienced hair and make up artist that has worked at New York Fashion Week to call her for a paid trial session. Evelyn was very happy with the artist and booked her for the wedding day.
Fourth Bridal Appointment. Time: 1 hr
Evelyn’s wedding gown and veil is complete two months before her wedding. It is ahead of schedule. Her gown was presented for a fitting. She was very pleased with the results. Sleeves needed slimming and we need to add a button and loop to create a bustle for her to dance in. Evelyn paid her final balance owing.
Final Bridal Appointment. Time: 1 hr
A final fitting with Evelyn helped address any last minute questions and queries regarding her bridal gown. She was very pleased with the outcome after sleeves were slim lined and bustle is created.  She liked the scalloped-edge of the sleeves with eye lash detail.
 Photo: Evelyn in her bridal gown and veil.

 Photo: Evelyn in her #helenconstance #mycouturestyle wedding dress on her big day.

Photo: Evelyn Mills seen above with her beau on their wedding day. 

Image: Evelyn gave WBMS Bridal 5-stars on her Facebook Review.